Well-maintained shears cut cleaner, last longer, and save you money on early replacements or emergency sharpening. Here's a quick-reference guide to keeping professional hair shears in top condition:
- Daily cleaning: wipe down with a lint-free cloth after every client and sanitize with a 70% alcohol solution. Dry immediately to prevent rust.
- Weekly lubrication: apply 2-3 drops of shear oil at the pivot point to reduce friction and keep the blades moving smoothly.
- Monthly deep cleaning: disassemble if the manufacturer allows it, clean hard-to-reach areas, check for rust or nicks, and reapply oil.
- Tension checks: test and adjust tension regularly so the blades cut cleanly without straining the pivot.
- Proper storage: keep shears in a padded, moisture-free case with a silica gel packet to prevent rust and impact damage.
These five habits are the difference between shears that hold their edge for years and shears that need professional sharpening every few months. Here's how to do each one properly.
Daily Cleaning
Hair, product residue, and natural oils build up on the blades every time you cut, and left alone they accelerate wear on the edge and the pivot. After each client, wipe the blades down with a lint-free cloth, then sanitize with a 70% isopropyl alcohol solution between clients as part of your standard sanitation routine. Dry the shears completely before closing and setting them down — trapped moisture is one of the most common causes of pivot rust.
Weekly Lubrication
Add 2-3 drops of shear oil directly to the pivot point once a week, then open and close the blades several times to work the oil evenly across the joint. Wipe away any excess with a microfiber cloth so oil doesn't transfer onto a client's hair. Skipping this step is one of the fastest ways to develop a gritty, uneven cutting action.
Monthly Deep Cleaning
Once a month, go beyond a surface wipe-down. If your shears are designed to be disassembled, take them apart to clean around the pivot and screw, using a small brush to clear out any trapped debris. Clean all parts with an alcohol-based solution, inspect for rust spots or nicks along the edge, and apply fresh oil before reassembling. If your shears aren't meant to come apart, focus that same level of attention on every accessible surface.
Adjusting Tension and Storing Shears
Correct tension is what lets the blades glide through hair rather than folding or pushing it. Shears that are too loose will feel floppy and produce uneven cuts; shears that are too tight will strain the pivot and dull faster. Check tension by holding the shears vertically by the finger ring — the top blade should fall slowly under its own weight, not snap shut or stay frozen in place. Adjust the tension screw in small increments and re-test after each turn.
For storage, keep shears in a padded case with a silica gel packet to guard against rust, impact, and temperature swings. Apply a thin layer of shear oil to the blades and pivot before putting them away — this creates a moisture barrier during storage. Store with the blades closed, tension backed off slightly, in a dry, stable environment away from direct sunlight.
Solving Common Shear Issues
Dull blades
Dull blades fold or push hair instead of slicing through it cleanly, and you may notice visible nicks along the edge. A quick way to check: cut a single strand of hair away from the head — if it bends instead of cutting cleanly, the edge needs attention. Light dullness can sometimes be improved with proper oiling and tension adjustment, but true dullness or nicks require professional sharpening. Sharpening it yourself without the right equipment can permanently damage the convex edge on Japanese-style shears.
Rust and corrosion
Rust usually comes from moisture left on the blades after cleaning or from storing shears in a humid environment. At the first sign of surface rust, clean the area with a rust eraser or a cloth lightly dampened with white vinegar, then dry thoroughly and oil immediately. Prevent it going forward by drying shears completely after every cleaning and always storing them with a moisture-absorbing packet.
Loose or sticky pivot
A pivot that feels loose usually means the tension screw has worked its way out and needs adjustment. A pivot that feels sticky or gritty usually means it needs cleaning and fresh oil before you touch the tension at all — lubricating first will often resolve what feels like a tension problem.
How Often to Sharpen
Most professional shears used daily need sharpening roughly every 6-9 months, though heavy daily use or dry-cutting-only workflows can shorten that interval. Signs it's time: the shears push or fold hair instead of cutting cleanly, you're applying more pressure than usual, or you notice snagging on certain sections. Following the maintenance routine above extends the interval between professional sharpenings and protects your investment in the shears.
Ready to build a maintenance routine around shears that are worth protecting? Browse Shihan Shears' professional hair cutting shears, built from premium Japanese steel for stylists and barbers who depend on their tools every day.